Tonnato Toast with Colorful Radishes

March in the Hudson Valley straddles the final chilly clutches of winter with the first days of soft, vernal spring. The tease of warmer days has already begun, even though jagged snow piles still sit, appearing as misshapen mounds swept to the edges of the landscape. I wholly admit to longing for tender green things by now. For the time being, sturdy, colorful radishes from my favorite farmers will have to do. A quick dish made with wonderfully punchy tonnato inches the spirit of al fresco dining just a little bit closer. Add a rich slather to toast. Pile the radishes as abundantly as you like. Juicy, salty, crunchy celebration, for spring is just around the corner. P.S. After draining the tuna, save that oil to make salad dressings or for cooking grains.

Tonnato Toast with Colorful Radishes

Serves 2

TONNATO

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise 

• 1 (6.7-ounce) jar oil-packed tuna, drained (save oil for dressing or cooking beans/grains)

• 3 tbsp salt-packed capers, rinsed of their salt

• 2 anchovy fillets

• 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper

• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

• Juice from 1 lemon (about 3 tablespoons)
  

TOASTS

• 1 small watermelon radish, thinly sliced on a mandoline

• 1/2 large watermelon radish, thinly sliced on a mandoline 

• 1/2 purple watermelon radish, thinly sliced on a mandoline

• 1/3 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped

• 1/2 tsp white wine vinegar

• Extra-virgin olive oil

• Freshly ground pepper

• 1/3 baguette (bonus if it’s a seeded loaf), cut in half lengthwise and toasted till golden

• 1/4 cup tonnato (above)

DIRECTIONS

1. Combine the mayonnaise, tuna, capers, anchovies, pepper, oil, lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon of water in a small high-speed blender or food processor. Blitz until smooth and creamy. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. If you prefer a thinner sauce, add another tablespoon of water and blitz again. Transfer the tonnato to a jar with a lid and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes or up to 1 week.

2. When you’re ready to eat, in a small bowl, mix the radish slices and parsley with the vinegar, a drizzle of oil, and a pinch of pepper until combined. Use only enough oil to give sheen to the radishes, not bog them down. Taste and adjust as needed.

3. Arrange the toasts on a plate. Slather the tonnato onto each half. Pile the radish mixture to top, then finish with a few generous grinds of cracked pepper.

4. I grew a lot of winter squash this season at my cottage in the Hudson Valley. Watching them ripen over the weeks I had time to consider what new ways I’d like to cook them. As chilly days arrive, inevitably thoughts go to comfort food, and so I dreamed up this vegetarian pasta dish. It delivers beautifully. 

5. Earthy, sweet pumpkin is roasted till tender, deepening its flavor. A tablespoon of gochujang adds punch, adding to the layers. To make it into a sauce, the pumpkin mixture is thinned with buttermilk and pasta cooking water - use as much pasta water as needed to achieve a pleasing, silky texture, coating the noodles. To finish, top this warming bowl with a generous dollop of ricotta and crispy, wafer-thin garlic “chips”. They’re an addictive, crunchy foil to the dish.